This thing is huge, a little more complicated to put on than a stock fan, but the benefits are even bigger.
Pros:
- CPU temperature went 25 degrees lower average. System is ridiculously cold as well because of the air flow (see next pro).
- Air flow is way easier to design with with a stand-up fan blowing from front to back
- Optional second 120mm fan can be mounted with provided attachment
- Cheap
- Versatile, can be used for many chipsets, so if you ever make a new build you will most likely be able to use it again (see product description)
Not really cons, but to keep in mind:
- No preset thermal paste (tube included)
- If your RAM has extra metal on top (heatsink), it might be tight/hard to fit/not fit (easy-breezy with low-profile Ballistix)
- If it's an upgrade, you will have to remove your motherboard as there is a part to attach at the bottom.
- Assembly requires some attention. The provided instructions have no words, just drawings, which can be confusing. Also, they mixed multiple chipset AMD/INTEL setup instructions so pay attention to the top left corner of each drawing. I recommend looking for a video instruction on YouTube with your chipset. The instructions weren't exactly in the same order as the paper's and felt more logical to me. Worked perfectly,
I'm going to start with the things I didn't like.
The instructions suck. They tell you to put thermal paste on your CPU before mounting the bracket that goes behind the motherboard. Due to the vague illustrations, I did not realize it needed a bracket behind the motherboard, when I was skimming the instructions. Simply put, I ended up having to put thermal paste on it twice because it's impossible to take a motherboard out of your case, attach the mounting bracket and put the motherboard back in place without contaminating the thermal paste. Even a single finger print or eye lash or piece of dust is enough to contaminate it and have an impact on the performance of your heat sink.
Another thing I didn't like was the tool used for tightening on the nuts for the bracket. I tried using it but ended up using a wrench instead.
Finally, I find the heat sink isn't exactly what I'd call secure. Even after tightening it down and making sure I had everything properly lined up, the whole thing will still twist a little bit. It's noticeable when you're trying to re-attach the fan.
I've seen other reviews saying they ended up with mounting parts that were defective. Fortunately, I did not have this problem.
What do I recommend buying before attempting this?
It comes with its own thermal paste but you could always buy better. I went with some Arctic Silver 5, like most people. You'll also want some lint free wipes (coffee filters work but I do not recommend them because they're a bit stiff and tend to cause scratches; I used PEC PAD wipes sold here on Amazon that I bought for cleaning photos and negatives) and either rubbing alcohol (at least 90% but 99% is preferred; can usually find at least 91% at Walmart and most stores) or one of those cleaner kits. Also, if you don't have a small wrench set, you might want to get one, unless you plan to rely on the tool included in the kit. You definitely need a screw driver but most people would know this already.
So, how do you put this thing on?
Be sure to consult the instructions for each step. Also, before you do anything, take the heat sink and fan and verify you have enough clearance for it on your motherboard and in your case. This heat sink is rather large. There is a risk of it crowding a RAM slot or being too tall to even fit in your case.
The first thing you should do is attach the bracket to your motherboard as per the instructions for your CPU. If you've already mounted your motherboard to your case, you will have to take it out. I used a wrench because I didn't have enough space to flip it completely on its back and use the included tool.
Detach the fan from the heat sink.
After you do that, put the X shaped bracket through the gap behind where the heat sink makes contact with the CPU. Keep the adhesive strip on for now. Test and make sure the X bracket matches up with the mount points you attached to your motherboard. Once you confirm you have it correctly adjusted, place your CPU in the socket (if you haven't already) and secure it.
Clean the CPU cap (the part where the heat sink will connect with the CPU; use a lint free wipe and the alcohol or cleaner solution) and place thermal paste in accordance with the instructions for your thermal paste. If your thermal paste lacks instructions, the idea is to have just enough paste covering the part of the cap directly above the core(s) for your CPU. If you can't find specific directions on google, you could try putting a small plus sign of paste in the middle. To get the appropriate amount of paste, you need only an amount equal to a single line covering about 50% of the length of the CPU cap. So, if you do a plus sign, it only needs to be about 25% of the length of the cap. If your CPU doesn't have a cap, just place a rice sized dot in the center of each core. Again, most CPUs have instructions for this online.
Once you've done that, take the adhesive strip off of the heat sink. I recommend cleaning the spot you took the adhesive off of (again, using a lint free wipe and cleaning solution) but it's not absolutely necessary. If you want to confirm whether you put enough or too much paste on, you can place the heat sink against the CPU, apply some pressure (just enough to get the paste to spread) and twist the heat sink a little each way. If you pull it up and the paste is going over the edge, you have too much and should use a lint free wipe to clean the excess along the edges. There should be at least enough to cover a circular area over all cores.
You should now carefully line up the brackets and orient your heat sink. Proceed with lightly screwing in each screw. Once you've got all 4 screws started, go around and tighten them all down.
Finally, reattach the fan, plug it in and you're done.
So, what did I like about this?
Once I finished putting it on, it lowered my idle temps quite a bit (down to about 27 C idle and about 48 C under load with the core temps topping out around 63 C under load) and it fixed the overheating problem I was having with my stock heat sink. Supposedly, over time the temps will get better as my thermal paste settles but I don't expect a huge difference. The fan hasn't noticeably raised the noise level in my PC, which is fairly quiet. I had a little trouble keeping the fan from touching the heat spreader on the closest RAM stick but I managed to wiggle in a tiny gap. The top of the heat sink comes really close to the other side of my case but there is a gap there. Overall, I'd say I'm satisfied.
When I first put my stock heat sink on, it did a fair job (but not great since even a small overclock caused it to overheat) at keeping the CPU cool. However, about 3.5 years later my idle temps had nearly doubled and games were starting to make it overheat. I had a choice to make. I could either clean off my stock heat sink and CPU and put on new thermal paste or I could buy a new heat sink. I decided that if I was going through that much trouble, I might as well invest in a good heat sink. This heat sink is compatible with a large range of CPUs. Furthermore, I don't plan to stop using my i5-3570K any time soon. So, even given the age of the CPU, I think I'll get my money back out of the heat sink. I'm wishing I hadn't been lazy and bought this heat sink back when I initially put this PC together.
For anyone curious, these are my motherboard and case.
ASUS P8Z77-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Thermaltake Armor Series VA8000BWS
I needed a cheap heat sink for temporary use while my Tt Floe Riing 360mm AIO was being replaced under warranty due to a leaking pump. I have to admit that this is way better than I expected it to be. My CPU temps at 5.0GHz in Cinebench are roughly the same as they were at 5.2GHz in Cinebench using water cooling. I added a second fan for push/pull. The temps are good enough that I don't have to be bored or impatient running stock clocks or a mickey mouse overclock while wait for the RMA. If you are on a tight budget and cannot afford liquid cooling, I highly recommend this cooler.
I replaced the stock intel cooler on my 4790k with this when I learned that I was sitting at 60C idle and had thermal throttling under load (AIDA64 stress test was quickly approaching 100C before I shut it down). This new cooler keeps me idle at about 30C, and even under full load (again using AIDA64) it is hovering around 60-65C. Very satisfied with the performance.
I have previously installed an older model hyper 212 on another computer, and like there, the installation was pretty easy.
The cooler looks much nicer than the older metal color model, and the RGB just adds to it.
Honestly couldn't be much happier about it. Highly recommend.
I bought this because it had 15% more maximum airflow and more than twice the surface area of my Noctua Heatsink.
The noctua heatsink I was using had a surface area of 6000CM^2
This heatsink has a surface area of 13,134CM^2 which is a huge improvement over the noctua.
The CPU can be a little snug when going into the motherboard. if you have an MSI x399 pro carbon or meg you might find that the heatsink rubs up against the VRM heatsink. I have bench tested any implications of this and can say that it does not negatively affect the VRM in terms of thermals. however it will also obscure the 4 RAM slots closest to the CPU so make sure you insert those first otherwise you will have to re-seat this heatsink to put anything in them.
my old Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3 would keep my CPU cool idle at 28c average and 58c under full load.
The cooler master Wraith ripper gives you idle average of 29c and 48c under full load.
I imagine the one degree of difference in idle is because its making contact with the VRM however it noticeably keeps the CPU cooler under max loads than the noctua does.
Edit: I should mention this is being used with a threadripper 1950X, woops
UPDATE: 11/15/2018
I was getting some abnormal temperature fluctuations so i did some investigating as to why.
what i found is that the fan was inserted BACKWARDS at the factory meaning that it was fighting the airflow of my case.
after fixing the orientation of the fan my idle temp went down from 29c to 24c which is a huge difference. My max temps appear to be stable now as well.
It took me an hour to properly disassembly the heatsink without damaging it. (the adhesive keeping the silicone bracers on for the mounting screws is reusable, dont be afraid to press on the mounting screws to detach them from the shroud with something like a screwdriver. (yes i said the screws not the silicone bracers)
The adhesive will re-attach to the shroud once you screw it back in just fine.
Feature Product
- Custom Colors - With a sturdy MasterFan 120 Air Balance RGB, MasterAir MA410P is ready for more than 16.7 million color options and fun effects to play with
- Continuous Direct Contact Technology 2.0 (CDC 2.0) - By compressing heat pipes together, there is 45% more surface area on the cooler base
- Precise Combination of Air Flow and Heatsink - The patented X-vents and Air-Guide steer extra ventilation to the hottest spots
- Snap and Play - Intuitive fan bracket design makes upgrading and removing the fan a breeze.
Description
The MasterAir MA410P TUF Gaming Edition is the upgraded version of the MasterAir Pro 4, the Pro standard in CPU air cooling design and production from Cooler Master. In addition to the standard version, we have added a TUF edition which is built for extreme cooling performance in collaboration with ASUS TUF series motherboards. The Continuous Direct Contact Technology 2.0 (CDC 2.0) increases the surface area of the cooler base by 45%. With the added bonus of the MasterFan 120 Air Balance RGB, making it not only silent and efficient in heat transfer, but also the most vibrant and fun choice when it comes to air cooling. If you are looking for an air cooler based on performance, silence, and quality RGB lighting, the MasterAir MA410P is the perfect cooler for you.
So, when I first bought the cooler I went onto the cooler master website to get the am4 kit because it said you had to get it that way, when the package arrived it actually already had support for it, so dont go and spend the money on the kit they have on the site. it cools my cpu great and i have been able to oc with it no problem
So I ordered this bad boy to replace a Thermaltake CPU fan that was not cooling my 4770 i7 properly. First of all, installation is a LOT easier if you install it while the board is out of the case. Installing it with the board set in place will make you want to toss this CPU fan out the window. Once I was finally able to get it mounted, it lit up and came on when I turned the PC.
The design is neat. It is bigger than what the picture shows, so be prepared for your GPU to be right next to the CPU fan. I had to remove my out-take fan in the back of my PC as there was not enough room for both. Since my RAM has no heatsinks, there were no issues there.
Switching from a Thermaltake CPU fan (the circular one) to this has seen maybe an improvement of 4 -6 degrees lower temps. From reading the reviews, I expected a bit more of a temp drop, but I believe my high temps are due to a cheap board (H81M-E).
Pros: Neat design, RGB lights, big heat sink, fast CPU fan, excellent if you are a Tron fan!
Cons: BIG, installation is easier on paper than hands on, RGB controller can only be accessed by opening case, RGB power and RGB controller is VERY flimsy and comes off very easily, not suited for people that hate Tron.
Make sure you have enough room and be prepared to lose a fan or two near the out-take. RAM heatsinks will be a TIGHT fit.
this cooler just looks good, cooling performence is not good enough, compare to my stock cooler this G100m does not get any better for cooling, according to hwinfo64 this cooler is doing almost the same as my stock cooler..... and also its lighter than my stock cooler, buy it if you want the led like me, do not buy it if u want better cooling. PS stock cooler is from dell inspiron 3847 i7-4790non-k. i did a case swap, the second pic is the stock cooler from dell.
This thing is capable of cooling an i7-9700k while doing it quietly. The highest I've seen my temps go has been while playing around with a 4.5ghz overclock, which went into the low 70's after a few minutes of prime. I may have been able to lower my voltages a little bit. I like running this processor at stock for now, surprisingly, and this thing never goes past 60 degrees. The top of the base section does have a bit more heatsink fins on the top compared to the 212 plus, which may or may not contribute to that. Not too bad! Looks nice in my case, too.
I like how they changed the mounting system for this compared to the hyper 212 plus. Being able to easily line this up while screwing it down evenly is so much better since you don't have to keep the mounting bracket from falling off the little peg in the middle of the plate. I really hated installing that cooler, and I was pleased to see that this one was much easier to install.
The fan is very quiet, being a silencio fan, and it hardly makes any noise under load. I can barely hear it in a Fractal Define Mini C. At idle, you can't even tell that it's on. Very happy with that!
My main business and personal PC runs a 1950X Threadripper chip, which I occasionally run at 90%+ capacity when doing video work, encoding, or running BOINC research tasks. As you can imagine, finding a cooling solution for this beast, especially in my 40+C degrees summers, has been a challenge from the beginning.
I tried an Arctic air cooler for my TR4 system and I could never run the Ripper at full hilt due to overheating problems, so I sold it. Then, I over a period of 6 nightmarish months, I went through not one, but TWO Enermax 360mm TR4 AIOs. BOTH of them failed within 3 months due to galvanic corrosion and pump failures (horrible horrible product, stay away from Enermax - their RMA system cost me money and was slow as well).
After my last, and final Enermax AIO failed, I finally decided that I didn't want to take the risk with an AIO again for my business critical TR4 system. When I discovered that Cooler Master, a brand that has never let me down in the past, developed an air box for TR4, I immediately placed my order.
I was concerned that a double tower cooler like this one would horribly bulky and ugly in my transparent side panel Gigabute AORUS case. However, take a look at the picture attached and judge for yourself (looks much better in person, though). For me, the cooler's sleek black facade looks very sexy and imposing and doesn't give the feeling of being "bulky" or "oversized." The LED fans (which you can control using an attached physical controller, which is great because I'm on Linux and it's tough to find LED controller software on my OS), also are gorgeous and the red color setting gives this hard core "cyclops" look in my case. Definitely not ugly and not an eyesore.
Now, to talk about the cooling - this cooler not only gives me BETTER temps than my old Enermax 360mm AIO, but is MUCH quieter and the temperatures are more STABLE. Right now, I am running 30 tasks on BOINC with a CPU utilization of ~90%, and my temps are holding stable at 68C with an ambient summer temperature of ~38C. I expect the performance to be even better when the frigid winter comes. Keep in mind I am holding stable at 68C with the Cooler Master twin fans running in "silent mode" (from my BIOS) which currently have the fan speeds remaining at 900 RPM. 900 RPM is not whisper quiet - it's practically inaudible.
Overall this is a fantastic product, typical of Cooler Master. If they had released this cooler when I first bought my 1950X, I would have purchased this first. This would have saved myself hundreds of dollars and months of noisy running and mediocre temps with my Enermax AIOs.
If you're a Threadripper "power user" like me, and you love AIOs but are concerned about "hit and miss" reliability and noisy radiator setups, give air cooling with Cooler Master a try. You lose the graceful looks of a pump and hose system in your case but will benefit in nearly every other category (temps, noise, reliability, cost), and as I mentioned before, CM's design of the plastic shroud and LED fans look quite sleek, industrial, and modern - obviously larger than a waterblock on your CPU, but not an eyesore either.
In conclusion, buying this air cooler from Cooler Master has been one of the best investments I've ever made for my Threadripper and they have made me a "believer" in the possibilities to air cool a 32 thread TR4 system.
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